“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”—John Steinbeck
For what seems like my entire life, I have dreamed of visiting the Amalfi Coast. Positano’s emerald waters and rocky beaches and thousands of steps leading down to the sea seemed like an ethereal dream. It’s a place that seems almost mythical with the soaring cliffs and mermaid motifs and hotels oozing the 1950s-esque movie star era glamour. The gorgeous scenery, Italian flavors and rich history of the Amalfi Coast beckoned to me as the crown jewel of Italy. I imagined that heaven would look like Positano.
When I was first planning my European summer in Italy, Positano was the destination for me. I spent hours poring over travel books, blog posts, and Travel Channel documentaries. I wanted to soak in everything that Positano had to offer during my sojourn to the Amalfi Coast. Since I visited my dream destination, in August, you might be wondering why it took me this long to write about the trip of a lifetime. The truth is, that trip to Positano was so special to me that I failed to put it into words for the longest time.
My long weekend in Positano consisted of some of the happiest days of my life, and I wanted to do this legendary little beachside village justice with this travel guide. A lot of love has gone into perfecting this guide and editing my photography of Positano.
John Steinbeck was right. Positano does bite deep. The place is so magical that it feels like a dream while you’re actually living on Amalfi Coast time. I hope you fall as hopelessly in love with the beach clubs, the Vespas and the people as I did. Positano is a dream worth waiting for.
The Positano Shortlist
Stay
- Villa Palumbo $$
- Hotel Marincanto $$
- Villa Yiara $$
- Hotel Villa Gabrisa $$$$
- Hotel Poseidon $$$$
- Le Sirenuse $$$$$
Play
- Path of the Gods Hike
- Private boat ride along the coast
- Tour Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption
- Ride a Vespa along the Amalfi Coast
Wine + Dine
- Collina Bakery $
- Delicatessan $
- Casa e bottega $$
- Terraza Cele $$
- Il Tridente $$
- Chez Black $$
- Osteria Le Tre Sorelle $$
- Buca di Bacco $$
- Le Sirenuse Champagne Bar $$
- Franco’s Bar $$
- Ristorante Max $$$
- Da Vicenzo $$$
- La Sponda $$$$
Sun
- Spiaggia Fornillo
- Spiaggia Grande
- La Scogliera Beach Club
- Da Adolfo
- Bagni d’Arienzo Beach Club
Shop
- Antica Sartoria
- Pepe Positano
- La Bottega di Brunella
- Stella Moda
Photograph
- Le Sirenuse Balcony
- Spiaggia Grande
- Starlit Positano
- Il Tridente Balcony
- View of Positano near Hotel Marincanto
- View of Positano near Villa Palumbo
- Positano From the Water
Daytrip
- Amalfi
- Ravello
- Atrani
- Sorrento
- Capri
Positano Packing List
Day
Swim
Evening
Where to Stay in Positano
Villa Palumbo
During my trip to the Amalfi Coast, I stayed at Villa Palumbo high on the western side of the town. The villa had absolutely breathtaking views of the cliffs, the ocean, the sunrise and Vespas zipping by below. The hospitality here was unmatched. I can’t recommend Villa Palumbo enough if you’re looking for a value stay with incredible views away from the hustle and bustle of Spiaggia Grande. Villa Palumbo is also conveniently located near two of my favorite restaurants: the health-conscious Casa e bottega and the famous Il Tridente at Hotel Poseidon.
Le Sirenuse
The famous Le Sirenuse is the most illustrious hotel in Positano. Celebrities from Frank Sinatra to Elizabeth Taylor to John Steinbeck have all stayed here. This is one of my favorite places in all of Positano for photography, sunset views and drinks. Le Sirenuse is also understandably the most expensive hotel in Positano. But guests say that the high price tag is worth the cost and more for the iconic location, breathtaking pool views of the Thyrennian Sea and divine Michelin-star-rated restaurant La Sponda.
Hotel Poseidon
Le Sirenuse may be a smidge more famous, but my heart will always lie with Hotel Poseidon. The hotel is like a 1950s film of Vespas and lemon groves and summer romance brought to life. Hotel Poseidon’s staff is so warm and welcoming, the food is incredible and the hotel itself oozes glamour with its mermaids and white and pink color palette. Make a reservation at Il Tridente for lunch and order the lemon cake for dessert—it will be the best decision of your trip.
Positano Beaches
Spiaggia Grande
When people think of the Positano they’ve seen in pictures and the movies, Spiaggia Grande probably comes to mind. The largest beach in Positano is home to a large selection of beach clubs and orange and blue chairs as well as Positano’s only ferry dock. I recommend arriving early if you’re looking to rent a chair + umbrella because they tend to go quickly. La Fontelina is my favorite beach club on Spiaggia Grande and is located at the far end of the beach away from the hustle and bustle. The pictures below were taken just after sunrise around 6:30am and the beach was practically empty (save for my little yellow lab friend pictured below).
Spiaggia Fornillo
My favorite beach in Positano! This spot is a lot quieter and more secluded than Spiaggia Grande. The beach clubs are also about half the price for a chair and umbrella (about 10 euro). Spiaggia Fornillo is an absolute paradise for a day well spent in the Amalfi Coast sunshine with a good beach read.
La Scogliera Beach Club
If you’re looking for a quieter corner of Spiaggia Grande, La Scogliera’s blue-and-white umbrellas offer a respite from the heat and the crowds. La Scogliera also offers a delicious lunch menu if you choose to spend your beach day here.
Dining in Positano
Ristorante Max
Ristorante Max is a fine dining restaurant and art gallery wrapped into one. The food here is so gourmet and the fairy-light atmosphere is so airy and magical at night. Order the lobster pasta—it is absolutely divine and some of the best pasta I’ve ever eaten.
Casa e bottega
If you’re looking for some respite from the all-carbs Italian way of life, Casa e bottega is the perfect spot for some healthier fare and green juices. All of the ingredients are fresh and locally sourced. The zucchini noodles are the best I’ve ever had. This is also a great place to browse Italian home goods in the boutique section of the restaurant.
Terraza Cele
Located in the charming siren-themed Hotel Marincanto, Terraza Cele is an incredible fine dining experience. The service here is impeccable and the seafood is so fresh. The dreamy decor and patio views are to die for, with turquoise cushions and white columns perfectly accenting the pink skies during sunset. This was my favorite sunset view in Positano. Order the snapper—you won’t be disappointed. You can make reservations online here.
Il Tridente
Hotel Poseidon holds my favorite patio for lunch in all of Positano—the infamous Il Tridente. The bougainvillea-framed views of Spiaggia Grande and the sea are so beautiful. Order the gnocchi and famous lemon cake for dessert. One of the most mouthwatering meals of my entire Italian adventure!
Chez Black
Chez Black is an iconic spot along Spiaggia Grande for heart-shaped pizza and beachfront views. Make a reservation for lunch for great people-watching during the summer season.
Collina Bakery
This is my favorite bakery in Positano for breakfast. It’s also the best place to go in the city for the Amalfi Coast’s famous lemon granita: frozen lemon sherbert served in a lemon. This dessert is so delicious that I guarantee you’ll have to eat it more than once during a weekend in Positano.
Delicatessan
The simply-named “Delicatessan” was my favorite budget lunch spot in Positano. You can order custom-made sandwiches here that are absolutely delicious: perfect for a picnic on the beach or a post-Path of the Gods hike lunch.
I’ll leave you with a few of my favorite pictures of Positano. If you have any questions about Positano, leave me a comment below or DM me on Instagram @melodykschmidt. Positano is one of my favorite topics and I would love to help you plan a trip to the Amalfi Coast 🙂 For more city guides from my European summer, visit the blog posts below:
Rome | Venice | Santorini| Atrani | What I Wore in Italy
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